foodie · japanese food · sushi ·Apr 18, 2025

Narezushi: The Ultimate Guide to History, Evolution, Regional Styles & Modern Enjoyment

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Hayato Eihara

I am a Japanese resident living in Japan!
With years of experience, I share in-depth and detailed information about Japan with the world.
As part of my mission to promote Japanese culture, I also run Japan Classic, an online shop specializing in unique, high-quality tableware. If you're interested, feel free to check it out!

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Introduction
Historical Background of Narezushi
Traditional Production Process and Fermentation Mechanism
Representative Regional Varieties of Narezushi
Enjoying Narezushi in Modern Times
Conclusion

Introduction

Sushi! A word everyone knows. Originally developed in Japan, it has now become a global cultural phenomenon, enjoyed around the world in ever‑evolving forms. Do you know the roots of sushi? The sushi of the past was quite different from what we know today! Let’s explore the history of sushi together!

Historical Background of Narezushi

Narezushi is considered the oldest form of sushi in Japan, drawing on fish‑salting and fermentation through lactic acid bacteria. Ancient people used salt to preserve raw fish for long periods and devised methods to ferment it. These techniques arrived in Japan alongside rice cultivation and gave rise to narezushi in which rice and fish are pickled together.

During the Nara and Heian periods spanning the eighth to twelfth centuries, narezushi became a delicacy served at noble households and temple feasts. Historical records mention variants like hayanarezushi and furunarezushi, highlighting how flavor varied with fermentation time. Rice and fish were placed in wooden vats called fumi‑daru where they matured for months to more than a year. As aging advanced, rice grains dissolved or turned sour, while fish took on a springy texture and rich umami.

In the Kamakura and Muromachi eras from the twelfth to sixteenth centuries, diverse regional styles emerged based on local climate and fish species. Around Lake Biwa, funazushi was made by fermenting whole fish including their innards, resulting in strong acidity and deep flavor. Along the Seto Inland Sea coast, small fish were used, and in the cold Sanin and Hokuriku regions, winter production yielded unique preserved foods. Across regions, fermentation methods, salt levels and pickling vessels varied.

By the Edo period covering the seventeenth to nineteenth centuries, narezushi ceased to include edible rice and evolved into fish cured with vinegar. This transformation laid the foundation for later sushi forms such as namanare and hayasushi, ultimately giving rise to Edomae sushi and modern nigiri and oshizushi. This long history reflects the ancestral wisdom of maximizing resources and balancing preservation with flavor. The power of fermentation remains an indispensable part of Japanese food culture and continues to be cherished today in regional festivals and local cuisine.

Traditional Production Process and Fermentation Mechanism

Narezushi production is based on the traditional technique of salt curing plus lactic acid fermentation

The process follows the steps below, each greatly influencing fermentation quality and flavor.

・Preliminary preparation of ingredients

– Remove fish guts and blood clots carefully and season with salt

– Cook rice until firm, cool it, and reduce excess moisture to achieve optimal osmotic pressure

・Layered pickling of rice and fish

– Spread a layer of rice at the bottom, place fish on top, then cover with another layer of rice

– Traditional vessels include cedar barrels and bamboo baskets called fumi‑daru; their breathability fosters gentle fermentation

・Weight and airtight management

– Place a heavy weight on top to press rice and fish firmly together

– Maintain a consistent temperature and humidity at approximately 15 to 20 degrees Celsius for several months to over a year

・Post‑aging finishing adjustments

– Remove rice and confirm the fish’s flavor

– Adjust seasoning lightly with salt or vinegar to balance taste and enhance palatability

The fermentation mechanism relies primarily on lactic acid bacteria

As these bacteria grow in the rice and fish mixture, they:

– Break down carbohydrates to produce lactic acid, lowering pH and improving preservation

– Convert fish proteins into peptides and amino acids, boosting umami

– Carry out enzymatic reactions that suppress off‑odors in the fish

This unique sourness and deep richness are the greatest appeal of narezushi. By fine‑tuning fermentation time and salt concentration, each region and household can create its own distinctive flavor

Representative Regional Varieties of Narezushi

Across Japan, unique narezushi varieties have been passed down, distinguished by fish species, aging periods, and salt concentrations. Representative examples include:

・Funazushi from Lake Biwa in Shiga Prefecture

Uses whole nigorobuna pickled with rice, aged for six months to over a year, producing strong acidity and deep richness, with a slight grainy rice texture. The fermentation liquid is rich in umami, typically enjoyed with daikon or other vegetables.

・Nishinzushi from southern Hokkaido

Made by layering salted herring with rice, with a shorter aging period of a few months, yielding a balanced acidity and the fish’s original rich fat flavor. Cherished as a fisherman’s preserved food and commonly used as a topping for ochazuke (tea over rice).

・Ayu Narezushi from the Seto Inland Sea in Shikoku

Features whole sweetfish aged for three to six months with modest salt, preserving the fish’s delicate sweetness and subtle flavor, making it approachable even for first‑timers. Locally served with ochazuke or lightly grilled.

・Small Fish Narezushi from the San’in and Hokuriku regions

Uses species like sandfish or pond smelt, aged for one to two months, and sometimes finished by removing rice and curing the fish in vinegar. Valued as an easy‑to‑eat preserved food.

Each of these regional specialties demonstrates the power of fermentation and the wisdom of balancing preservation with flavor, continuing to be treasured in local culinary traditions.

Enjoying Narezushi in Modern Times

Tasting at traditional and regional eateries

In specialized shops that preserve tradition, you can savor authentic craft narezushi prepared by professionals. In Shiga Prefecture’s regional cuisine restaurants, it’s especially recommended to relax and enjoy the local funazushi.

Home hands‑on fermentation

With abundant fermentation kits and beginner workshops, anyone can easily experience fermentation at home. You can adjust salt levels and aging periods to create your own original flavor.

Pairing with alcoholic beverages

The umami and acidity of narezushi pair superbly with sake, wine, and craft beer.

・With dry junmai sake, the deep richness from fermentation is accentuated.

・When matched with a fruity white wine, it leaves a refreshing aftertaste.

Creative recipe adaptations

・Thinly slice and place on crackers for a sophisticated appetizer.

・Finely chop and use as a salad topping.

・Incorporate into open‑faced sandwiches.

・Add as a secret flavor enhancer in risotto or pasta.

As gifts and souvenirs

As a regional specialty, narezushi is popular for celebrations and gifts. It’s often sold vacuum‑packed or in elegant gift boxes, ensuring long‑term preservation.

As a health‑conscious fermented food

Rich in lactic acid bacteria and amino acids, narezushi supports gut health and nutritional supplementation. Incorporate it into your daily meals to enjoy the health benefits unique to fermented foods.

Conclusion

Narezushi is Japan’s oldest sushi, rooted in ancient fish‑salting and fermentation techniques, and over its long history has evolved into diverse regional specialties across the country.

The unique sourness and deep umami born from lactic acid fermentation of rice and fish remain beloved in traditional restaurants and home kitchens, and pair perfectly with sake, wine, and creative dishes.

At its heart lies the wisdom of ancestors who maximized ingredients without waste and enhanced flavor, a tradition still treasured as part of local festivals and as a gift.

We invite you to experience this taste of tradition and discover the profound depth of Japan’s fermentation culture.